Forget the Daffodils. Go Native

By Guest Bloggers Troy McGregor and Jess Kolman

Mention bulbs to most gardeners and you are likely to start hearing names like Daffodils, Tulips and Crocus. What most aren’t aware of or don’t consider garden ready are our own Californian native bulbs. Though their range is vastly reduced from ‘white-man magic’, it is still possible to see many species in open grasslands, redwood forests, rocky slopes and oak woodlands. For the sake of a quick post I’ll group corms and rhizomes under the term bulb. Here are some of my favorites that work well in gardens. I've asked my friend and fellow native plant gardener Jess Kolman to write the descriptions for this post.                               

Allium unifolium (Single-leaf Onion)

               In late spring, our grasslands and chaparral are dotted with the pink of Allium unifolium. From tufts of grassy foliage arise sturdy 1-2’ stalks, topped with showy flower umbels, pale pink with a darker stripe through each petal. The blossoms’ large size and pastel colors make them at once bold and dainty. The flowers gradually dry to tan, but remain upright and decorative for some time. Eventually, the plant disappears for fall and winter, but spreads via bulblets and seed for an increased show each spring.

This unfussy plant is at home in many conditions including heavy clay, as long as it has at least part sun while growing. Supplemental watering will extend bloom time by several weeks, and after flowering, either moderate irrigation or complete drought is acceptable. The plant’s garlic scent is subtle to humans, but repels deer. The flowers attract birds, bees and butterflies.

Dichelostemma ida-maia (California Firecracker)
This distinctive flower brings a hint of flamboyance to the spring garden. Bare stalks of 1’ or taller produce bunches of vivid red capsule-shaped flowers, tipped with apple-green. Later, the green tips open and fold back, revealing a yellowish underside and white anthers. As the dangling flowers reach seeding stage, they stand up, so a single cluster may at times have a combination of pendent and upright capsules. The basal leaves are long and lily-like, emerging from the ground in spring and withering by the time flower stalks rise.

California Firecracker prefers part shade and is not fussy about soil. After flowering it can handle a little moisture, but will happily go completely dry. It attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds like a magnet.

Calochortus superbus (Superb Mariposa Tulip)
Calochortus is Greek for “beautiful grass”, and is an understatement in the case of Calochortus superbus. The “grass” is the long, narrow leaves that emerge in spring, and the “beautiful” is the large, bowl-shaped flowers posed atop erect 1-2’ stalks. They may be any number of colors, including yellow, lavender, pink or red, but most often they are pristine white. In all cases, the flower center is mottled with reds and golds, and partway up each petal is a spot of crimson with a gold lining like a halo. These flowers should be given prominent placement so their patterns and beauty spots can be noticed. Nectar-loving pollinators will greatly appreciate them also.

The plants die down late in spring, at which point water should be withheld until fall. They need sun and tolerate various soils, but good drainage is best. These flowers make gorgeous container specimens, if the pots are put away somewhere dry through summer. They also make superb cut flowers.

Calochortus venustus (Butterfly Mariposa Tulip)
This is among the most breathtaking of California’s spring flowering bulbs. Sturdy 1-2’ stalks rise from grass-like clumps, carrying large flower buds that may open white, yellow, pink, lavender or red. The potential flower colors provide an element of surprise, like opening a present, and the petals’ markings look like decorations applied by a folk artist. The flower centers are splashed with patterns of red and gold, and each petal has a crimson spot ringed in gold, with a similar, fainter smudge above it. Early explorers inspired by the flowers’ beauty called them Mariposa, Spanish for butterfly. Actual butterflies and other pollinators will frequently be seen enjoying the blossoms.

Put this plant in a sunny spot with decent drainage, and cut off all water once it disappears to summer dormancy. It is a show-stopper in pots, if left dry though summer, and it also makes a stunning, long-lived cut flower.

Lilium pardalinum (Leopard Lily)
This giant of a lily flowers in summer, providing great drama at a time when many other native flowers are resting. The glossy, slender leaves appear in spring, producing stalks that quickly reach up to 6’ in height, with groups of leaves spaced at intervals. Each stalk bears many dazzling 3” flowers with petals curling upward, and sprays of stamens hanging downward. The flowers are gold in the center, graduating to deep orange or red on the tips, and splashed with dark freckles. The stamens are brilliant yellow with darker pollen-covered tips that bees, butterflies and birds flock to.

This flowering Goliath isn’t difficult to grow but needs moisture year-round, and in hotter climates needs protection from afternoon sun. In cool coastal climates it can handle and may prefer full sun. Put it in a spot where it won’t be missed during winter dormancy, but can reach its full towering glory in summer.

Triteleia ixioides 'Starlight' (Golden Brodiaea)
This cheery and easygoing spring-flowering bulb is nicknamed Pretty Face. Open, airy umbels of six-petaled, star-like flowers in champagne or honey tones are held atop bare flower stalks rising 1-2’ feet over narrow basal leaves. Each petal has a contrasting stripe of olive or rust.

Golden Brodiaea enjoys sunny locations, or can be used to bring sunny color to a partly shaded spot in the garden. It needs moisture through spring, but after blooming it accepts either total drought or moderate watering. Thriving in a variety of soil types, it is a vigorous grower that will appear in ever increasing numbers each spring, to the delight of people, hummingbirds and butterflies.

Triteleia laxa 'Queen Fabiola' (Ithuriel's Spear)
This is one of the easiest yet most rewarding of the native bulbs, electrifying the spring garden with its brilliant hues. Basal clumps of narrow, sword-like leaves appear in spring, sending up numerous bare stalks 1-2’, each carrying a loose, open cluster of deep, blue-violet flowers. The individual flowers have funnel-shaped centers and flare into sharply six-pointed stars of 1-3”. These bold inflorescences are reminiscent of Agapanthus, though more saturated in color, and pair stunningly with the complementary pinks or yellows of other bulbs.

Queen Fabioloa flourishes in clay or sand, sun or part shade. Once the plant fades to summer dormancy, some water is tolerated but drought is preferred. It proliferates quickly and each spring provides a greater feast for the eyes—as well as for butterflies and hummingbirds.

Added by Susan:  If you're local (East Bay, California area), Troy will have these available for sale at the March 7 Markham Aboretum plant sale.  On-line sources are:

Telos Rare Bulbs
Brent and Becky's Bulbs

Comments

[DaffodilPlanter]

What welcome information (even to a Narcissus lover). Thank you!

[tina]

Forget daffys? Say it isn't so:) I love all bulbs and especially daffys. I also like alternatives too. Such lovely bulbs you have recommended. I will look for them.

[Troy]

You'll be happy to know that I have some Daffodils still growing in the mostly native front yard. I wasn't thorough enough during the tear out and now they are popping up with big smiles on their face… I’m sure one of them ‘flipped me the bird’ this morning just to make a point.

[susan (garden-chick)]

Perfect post for me, I am severly bulb-challenged. A few questions - what time of year do you plant? Also, for the lily, when you say needs moisture year round, are we talking low water or something more regular? Finally, if the garden is on a drip system, can you accomodate the no summer water bulbs by not providing irrigation at all and letting them get all their water from winter rain?

[Troy]

The best time to plant bulbs is in the Fall. Bulbs grown in pots can be planted in the Spring and still do well.

Lilium pardalinum does well if it isn't allowed to dry out. The best placement in our area would be under a canopy (not oak) with drip irrigation once or twice per week. If you have a damp place or creek/s through your yard then try them there. Larger pots are also a good option.

Winter wet, summer dry is always the best bet for the bulbs mentioned above (except for the Lily). If planting in a bed with existing drip irrigation, try planting in high spots or stick with Allium unifolium or Triteleia laxa 'Queen Fabiola'.

[VW]

Those do look like nice plants, and the descriptions are great . . . but I'm a sucker for man-modified big blooms. Sigh. Though I do HATE the half-dead foliage of daffs and tulips. I'd like to spread a ton of snowdrops and other tiny bulbs around someday, though. VW

[Renate (Town Mouse)]

Great post! I have the lilium in my redwood habitat garden (shade) and it's just stunning. This fall I've planted Triteleia and Dichelostemma ida-maia, and we'll see how that goes. Something seems to be coming up. That said, I stuck some daffodils bulbs in the ground a few years ago, and they're doing very well on total neglect. But I really hope the new bulbs will do well. The Dicelostemma is red and lime green. How cool is that?

[inadvertentfarmer]

I don't have any bulbs to speak of but would like to incorporate some into our south sloping field. The only problem I have is the herd of elk that come through. I will have to do some research for things that are native to W. Washinton but he elk don't like...wish me luck! Thanks for the reminder about native bulbs! Kim

[Jess]

I too have quite a few Daffodils that I planted ages ago before discovering natives, but I won’t dig them up because I figure they’ve earned their place by performing so bravely every year with zero care. They’re a nice little prelude to the native blooms that will follow later. I agree with Town Mouse that flowers don’t get much cooler than red and lime green! As far as watering, the Calochortus really do need to stay bone-dry over summer, so try to plant them where they won’t get seepage from elsewhere. Mine are an experiment, because I placed them in areas I don’t plant to water, but I don’t know how far the moisture will wick from plants I irrigate a few feet away. Probably a good bet to put them around Ceanothus, Fremontodendron, needlegrasses, and other plants that just don’t want summer water. For watering the Lilium pardalinum, Troy’s guidelines above are spot-on; as a low-tech person without a drip system, I’d only dare to put it near the birdbath, which the birds demand I dump and refill daily, so the area is always damp. Kim—good luck on the Washington native bulb quest! I’ve been encouraging my Washington relatives to go native and have directed them to the Washington Native Plant Society site--http://www.wnps.org/--check it out if you haven’t already, as it seems to have a handy interface that lists native plants by county.

[inadvertentfarmer]

Thanks Jess...I'll check it out! Kim

[lostlandscape]

I grow the C. superbus and tritelia and really enjoy them. A bulb that isn't so splashy, but one that I'm starting to move to my #1 spot, is the pretty common Dichelostemma capitatum. As my plantings have matured they get more and more dense and put on a show that goes on longer than most bulbs.

[Troy]

Dichelostemma capitatum (Blue dicks) grows well in the open spaces along the Carquinez Strait region and looks great bobbing above the bunch grasses.

Another common bulb that I'm beginning to appreciate is Chlorogalum pomeridianum (Soap root). The wavy leaves started emerging about a month ago and in good numbers in my area. The flower stalks emerge in late spring/ early summer and burst into flower in the late afternoon, often 4-6' tall. One stalk can contain hundreds of tiny white (fragrant) flowers that are guaranteed to be a show stopper.

[Susan (garden chick)]

Kim - your comment cracks me up! Next time I complain about having to design another deer resistant lawn, I'll remind myself that at least no one is asking me for stampeding-herd-of-elk resistant plants!